Electrical troubleshooting and repair

Dead batteries, blown fuses, flicker, drains and wiring you don't trust. We measure, explain what we found, then fix it so it's safer than before.

Get a quote (801) 503-9992
Working on the inverter, fuse block and battery in a van electrical bay

Measure first, then fix

Electrical is where most van problems live, and it's a big share of our work. We've fixed shorted battery banks, a Promaster with a fault nobody could find, Revels, Thor Tellaros, and systems built around Victron, Goal Zero and modVans XMS. When another builder did the original work, we'll talk to them if that's the fastest fix.

We start with measurements, not guesses: parasitic draw with everything off, voltage drop under load, and a close look at every termination and fuse. You hear what we found before we replace anything.

Upgrading for new appliances

We also grow existing systems when you add something big, especially an air conditioner. That usually means more battery capacity, a larger inverter or a move to 24V, faster charging from a DC-DC upgrade or a second alternator, and heavier cable and fusing so the new load runs cool and safe. We check what your current system can handle first and reuse everything that is still up to the job.

BATTERYMAIN FUSEDISTRIBUTIONFRIDGEINVERTERAV1234MEASUREMENT POINTSALT LIFE VANS / SLC UTELECTRICAL DIAGNOSISDWG ALV-204SCALE NTS
Drawing ALV-204Measurement points

Where we put the meters. Most dead-battery and flicker problems show up as parasitic draw or voltage drop at a specific connection.

  1. 1Parasitic draw measured with everything switched off
  2. 2Voltage drop under load finds undersized wire and bad crimps
  3. 3Fuse sized to the wire missing fuses are the common fire risk
  4. 4Terminations checked for heat and torque

What we find most often

Most electrical complaints trace back to a short list of causes.

Battery dead overnight

Something drawing power when it shouldn't.

  • Inverter left on all night
  • Always-on electronics
  • Negatives bypassing the shunt so state of charge reads wrong

Best for: Fixed with measurement, rewiring or settings.

Flicker, heat or cutouts

Voltage drop when big loads start.

  • Undersized cable
  • Wrong lug or bad crimp
  • Loose or overheating battery terminals

Best for: Fixed by re-terminating or replacing cable.

Not enough system for a new appliance

Adding an air conditioner, induction or a bigger inverter to an existing van.

  • Bank too small for hours of AC
  • Inverter or cable undersized for the new load
  • Charging that cannot refill the bank between days

Best for: Fixed by adding capacity, charging and cable, often keeping the parts that still fit.

Missing protection and bad settings

Things that work until they don't.

  • No main fuse near the battery
  • Lithium on an alternator with no DC-DC or regulator
  • Chargers left on lead-acid profiles
  • No GFCI or wrong AC bonding

Best for: Fixed with correct fusing, hardware and settings.

How we do it

  1. Listen

    What happens, when, and what changed. Bring any diagrams or receipts.

  2. Inspect

    Visual and thermal check of terminals, fuses and cable runs.

  3. Measure

    Parasitic draw and voltage drop at the points that matter.

  4. Explain and fix

    We show you the cause, then re-terminate, re-fuse, replace or reprogram.

  5. Re-test and document

    Tested under load, with notes on what we changed.

Signs you shouldn't ignore

Warm wires or terminals

Heat at a connection is resistance. It gets worse, not better.

Lead-acid settings on lithium

Charging profiles left at defaults shorten battery life even when everything seems fine.

Battery percentage that lies

A missing or bypassed shunt makes the battery look fuller than it is.

Passing through?

Call us. We try to fit urgent diagnosis in for people on the road.

Electrical parts on the shop bench
Electrical parts on the shop bench
Tracing a parasitic drain with a clamp meter
IllustrationTracing a parasitic drain with a clamp meter
Undersized wire and a melted connector behind a panel
IllustrationUndersized wire and a melted connector behind a panel

Questions about electrical repair

Why does my battery die overnight?

Usually an inverter left on, a hidden load, or a shunt that's being bypassed. We measure to find it.

Can you work on a system someone else built?

Yes, DIY or professional. We've worked on Victron, Goal Zero and modVans systems and factory vans like the Revel.

Do you just replace everything?

No. We fix what's wrong and explain why if something truly needs replacing.

Can my existing system run an air conditioner?

Sometimes, but usually it needs more battery, charging and cable. We measure what you have and upgrade only what falls short.

My lights dim when the fridge kicks on. Is that bad?

It usually means voltage drop from undersized wire or a loose connection, which is worth fixing.

Tell us what's happening

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